voyage of the paper canoe-第48部分

快捷操作: 按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页 按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页 按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部! 如果本书没有阅读完，想下次继续接着阅读，可使用上方 "收藏到我的浏览器" 功能 和 "加入书签" 功能！

e　of　the　Concord　naturalist　and　philosopher。　　How　he　would　have　enjoyed　the　descent　of　this　wild　river　from　the　swamp　to　the　sea！　　He　had　left　us　for　purer　delights；　but　I　could　enjoy　his　〃Walden〃　as　though　he　still　lived；　and　read　of　his　studies　of　nature　with　ever…increasing　interest。

Swamps　have　their　peculiar　features。　　Those　of　the　Waccamaw　were　indeed　desolate；　while　the　swamps　of　the　St。　Mary's　were　full　of　　sunshine　for　the　traveller。　　Soon　after　the　canoe　had　commenced　her　river　journey；　a　sharp　sound；　like　that　produced　by　a　man　striking　the　water　with　a　broad；　flat　stick；　reached　my　ears。　　As　this　sound　was　frequently　repeated；　and　always　in　advance　of　my　boat；　it　roused　my　curiosity。　It　proved　to　come　from　alligators。　　One　after　another　slipped　off　the　banks；　striking　the　water　with　their　tails　as　they　took　refuge　in　the　river　from　the　disturber　of　their　peace。　　To　observe　the　movements　of　these　reptiles　I　ran　the　canoe　within　two　rods　of　the　left　shore；　and　by　rapid　paddling　was　enabled　to　arrive　opposite　a　　creature　as　he　entered　the　water。　　When　thus　　confronted；　the　alligator　would　depress　his　ugly　head；　lash　the　water　once　with　his　tail；　and　dive　under　the　canoe；　a　most　thoroughly　alarmed　　animal。　　All　these　alligators　were　mere　babies；　very　few　being　over　four　feet　long。　　Had　they　been　as　large　as　the　one　which　greeted　me　at　Colonel's　Island；　I　should　not　have　investigated　their　dispositions；　but　would　have　considered　discretion　the　better　part　of　valor；　and　left　them　undisturbed　in　their　sun…baths　on　the　banks。

In　all　my　experience　with　the　hundreds　of　alligators　I　have　seen　in　the　southern　rivers　and　swamps　of　North　America；　every　one；　both　large　and　small；　fled　at　the　approach　of　man。　The　experience　of　some　of　my　friends　in　their　acquaintance　with　American　alligators　has　been　of　a　more　serious　nature。　　It　is　well　to　exercise　care　about　camping　at　night　close　to　the　water　infested　with　large　saurians；　as　one　of　these　strong　fellows　could　easily　seize　a　sleeping　man　by　the　leg　and　draw　him　into　the　river。　　They　do　not　seem　to　fear　a　recumbent　or　bowed　　figure；　but；　like　most　wild　animals；　flee　before　the　upright　form　of　man。

Late　in　the　afternoon　I　passed　an　island；　made　by　a　〃cut…off〃　through　a　bend　of　the　river；　and；　according　to　previous　directions；　counted　　fourteen　bends　or　reaches　in　the　river　which　was　to　guide　me　to　Stewart's　Ferry；　the　owner　of　which　lived　back　in　the　woods；　his　cabin　not　being　　discernible　from　the　river。　　Near　this　spot；　which　is　occasionally　visited　by　lumbermen　and　　pinywoods　settlers；　I　drew　my　canoe　on　to　a　sandy　beach　one　rod　in　length。　　A　little　bluff；　five　or　six　feet　above　the　water；　furnished　me　with　the　broad　leaves　of　the　saw…palmetto；　a　dwarfish　sort　of　palm；　which　I　arranged　for　a　bed。　　The　　provision…basket　was　placed　at　my　head。　　A　little　fire　of　light…wood　cheered　me　for　a　while；　but　its　bright　flame　soon　attracted　winged　insects　in　large　numbers。　　Having　made　a　cup　of　　chocolate；　and　eaten　some　of　Captain　Akin's　chipped　beef　and　crackers；　I　continued　my　preparations　for　the　night。　　Feeling　somewhat　nervous　about　large　alligators；　I　covered　myself　with　a　piece　of　painted　canvas；　which　was　stiff　and　strong；　and　placed　the　little　revolver；　my　only　weapon；　under　my　blanket。

As　I　fully　realized　the　novelty　of　my　strange　position　in　this　desolate　region；　it　was　some　time　before　I　could　compose　myself　and　sleep。　　It　was　a　night　of　dreams。　　Sounds　indistinct　but　numerous　troubled　my　brain；　until　I　was　fully　roused　to　wakefulness　by　horrible　visions　and　doleful　cries。　　The　chuck…will's…widow；　which　in　the　south　supplies　the　place　of　our　　whippoorwill；　repeated　his　oft…told　tale　of　〃　chuckwill's…widow；　chuck…will's…widow；〃　with　　untiring　earnestness。　　The　owls　hooted　wildly；　with　a　chorus　of　cries　from　animals　and　reptiles　not　recognizable　by　me；　excepting　the　snarling　voices　of　the　coons　fighting　in　the　forest。　　These　last　were　old　acquaintances；　however；　as　they　　frequently　gathered　round　my　camp　at　night　to　pick　up　the　remains　of　supper。

While　I　listened；　there　rose　a　cry　so　hideous　in　its　character　and　so　belligerent　in　its　tone；　that　I　trembled　with　fear　upon　my　palm…leaf　mattress。　It　resembled　the　bellowing　of　an　infuriated　bull；　but　was　louder　and　more　penetrating　in　its　effect。　The　proximity　of　this　animal　was　indeed　　unpleasant；　for　he　had　planted　himself　on　the　　river's　edge；　near　the　little　bluff　upon　which　my　camp　had　been　constructed。　The　loud　roar　was　answered　by　a　similar　bellow　from　the　other　side　of　the　river；　and　for　a　long　time　did　these　two　male　alligators　keep　up　their　challenging　cries；　without　coming　to　combat。　　Numerous　　wood…mice　attacked　my　provision…basket；　and　even　worked　their　way　through　the　leaves　of　my　　palmetto　mattress。

Thus　with　an　endless　variety　of　annoyances　the　night　wore　wearily　away；　but　the　light　of　the　rising　sun　did　not　penetrate　the　thick　fog　which　enveloped　the　river　until　after　eight　o'clock；　when　I　embarked　for　a　second　day's　journey　upon　the　stream；　which　had　now　attained　a　width　of　five　or　six　rods。　　Rafts　of　logs　blocked　the　river　as　I　approached　the　settlement　of　Trader's　Hill；　and　upon　a　most　insecure　footing　the　canoe　was　dragged　over　a　quarter　of　a　mile　of　logs；　and　put　into　the　water　on　the　lower　side　of　the　〃jam。〃　　Crossing　several　of　these　log　〃jams；〃　which　covered　the　entire　width　of　the　St。　Mary's；　I　became　weary　of　the　task；　and；　after　the　last　was　reached；　determined　to　go　into　camp　until　the　next　day；　when　suddenly　the　voices　of　men　in　the　woods　were　heard。

Soon　a　gentleman；　with　two　raftsmen；　　appeared　and　kindly　greeted　me。　　They　had　been　notified　of　my　approach　at　Trader's　Hill　by　a　courier　sent　from　Dutton　across　the　woods；　and　these　men；　whose　knowledge　of　wood…craft　is　wonderful；　had　timed　my　movements　so　　correctly　that　they　had　arrived　just　in　time　to　meet　me　at　this　point。　　The　two　raftsmen　rubbed　the　canoe　all　over　with　their　hands；　and　expressed　delight　at　its　beautiful　finish　in　their　own　　peculiar　vernacular。

〃She's　the　dog…gonedest　thing　I　ever　seed；　and　jist　as　putty　as　a　new　coffin！〃　exclaimed　one。

〃Indeed；　she's　the　handsomest　trick　I　ever　did　blink　on；〃　said　the　second。

The　two　stalwart　lumbermen　lifted　the　boat　as　though　she　were　but　a　feather；　and　carried　her；　jumping　from　log　to　log；　the　whole　length　of　the　raft。　　They　then　put　her　gently　in　the　water；　and　added　to　their　farewell　the　cheering　intelligence　that　〃there's　no　more　jams　nor　rafts　'twixt　here　and　the　sea；　and　you　can　go　clar　on　to　New　York　if　you　like。〃

Trader's　Hill；　on　a　very　high　bluff　on　the　left　bank；　was　soon　passed；　when　the　current　seemed　suddenly　to　cease；　and　I　felt　the　first　tidal　effect　of　the　sea；　though　many　miles　from　the　coast。　The　tide　was　flooding。　　I　now　laid　aside　the　paddle；　and　putting　the　light　steel　outriggers　in　their　sockets；　rapidly　rowed　down　the　now　broad　river　until　the　shadows　of　night　fell　upon　forest　and　stream；　when　the　comfortable　residence　of　Mr。　Lewis　Davis；　with　his　steam　saw…mill；　came　into　sight　upon　Orange　Bluff；　on　the　Florida　side　of　the　river。　　Here　a　kind　welcome　greeted　me　from　host　and　hostess；　who　had　dwelt　twenty　years　in　this　romantic　but　secluded　spot。　There　were　orange…trees　forty　years　old　on　this　　property；　and　all　in　fine　bearing　order。　　There　was　also　a　fine　sulphur　spring　near　the　house。

Mr。　Davis　stated　that；　during　a　residence　of　twenty　years　in　this　charming　locality；　he　had　experienced　but　one　attack　of　chills。　　He　　considered　the　St。　Mary's　River；　on　account　of　the　purity　of　its　waters；　one　of　the　healthiest　of　southern　streams。　　The　descent　of　this　beautiful　river　now　became　a　holiday　pastime。　　Though　there　were　but　few　signs　of　the　existence　of　man；　the　scenery　was　of　a　cheering　character。　A　brick…kiln；　a　few　saw…mills；　and　an　abandoned　rice…plantation　were　passed；　while　the　low　　saltmarshes；　extending　into　the　river　from　the　forest…covered　upland；　gave　evidence　of　the　proximity　to　the　sea。　Large　alligators　were　frequently　seen　sunning　themselves　upon　the　edges　of　the　banks。

At　dusk　the　town　of　St。　Mary's；　in　its　wealth　of　foliage；　opened　to　my　view　from　across　the　lowlands；　and　soon　after　the　paper　canoe　was　carefully　stored　in　a　building　belonging　to　one　of　its　hospitable　citizens；　while　local　authority　asserted　that　I　had　traversed　one　hundred　and　seventy…five　miles　of　the　river。

One　evening；　while　enjoying　the　hospitality　of　Mr。　Silas　Fordam；　at　his　beautiful　winter　home；　〃Orange　Hall；〃　situated　in　the　heart　of　St。　Mary's；　a　note；　signed　by　the　Hon。　J。　M。　　Arnow；　mayor　of　the　city；　was　handed　me。　　Mr。　Arnow；　in　the　name　of　the　city　government；　　invited　my　presence　at　the　Spencer　House。　　Upon　arriving　at　the　hotel；　a　surprise　awaited　me。　The　citizens　of　the　place　had　gathered　to　　welcome　the　paper　canoe　and　its　owner；　and　to　express　the　kindly　feelings　they；　as　southern　　citizens；　held　towards　their　northern　friends。　　The　hotel　was　decorated　with　flags　and　floral　　emblems；　one　of　which　expressed；　in　its　ingeniously　constructed　words；　wrought　in　flowers；　〃One　hundred　thousand　Welcomes。〃

The　mayor　and　his　friends　received　me　upon　the　veranda　of　the　hotel　with　kind　words　of　welcome。　　Bright　lights　glimmered　at　this　　moment　through　the