voyage of the paper canoe-第47部分

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e　lowland；　which　entangled　my　feet；　frequently　leaping　natural　ditches；　and　going　down　with　a　thud　in　the　mud　on　the　other　side；　I　finally　struck　the　firm　ground　of　the　largest　Jointer　Hammock；　when　the　voice　of　its　owner；　Mr。　R。　F。　Williams；　sounded　most　cheerfully　in　my　ears　as　he　　exclaimed：　〃Where　did　you　come　from？　How　did　you　get　across　the　marsh？〃

The　unfortunate　position　of　my　boat　was　explained　while　the　family　gathered　round　me；　after　which　we　sat　down　to　supper。　　Mr。　　Wilhams　felt　anxious　about　the　cargo　of　my　boat。　The　coons；　　he　said；　〃will　scent　your　　provisions；　and　tear　everything　to　pieces　in　the　boat。　　We　must　go　look　after　it　immediately。〃　To　go　to　the　canoe　we　were　obliged　to　follow　a　creek　which　swept　past　the　side　of　the　hammock；　opposite　to　my　landing…place；　and　row　two　or　three　miles　on　Jointer　Creek。　　At　nine　o'clock　we　reached　the　locality　where　I　had　abandoned　the　paper　canoe。　　Everything　had　changed　in　appearance；　the　land　was　under　water；　not　a　landmark　remained　except　the　top　of　the　oar；　which　rose　out　of　the　lake…like　expanse　of　water；　while　near　it　gracefully　floated　my　little　companion。　We　towed　her　to　the　hammock；　and　after　the　tedious　labor　of　divesting　myself　of　the　marsh　mud；　which　clung　to　my　clothes；　had　been　crowned　with　success；　the　comfortable　bed　furnished　by　my　host　gave　rest　to　limbs　and　nerves　which　had　been　severely　overtaxed　since　sun　set。

The　following　day　opened　cloudy　and　windy。　The　ocean　inlet　of　Jekyl　and　St。　Andrew's　sounds　is　three　miles　wide。　　From　the　mouth　of　Jointer　Creek；　across　these　unprotected　　sounds；　to　High　Point　of　Cumberland　Island；　is　eight　miles。　　The　route　from　the　creek　to　Cumberland　Island　was　a　risky　one　for　so　small　a　boat　as　the　paper　canoe　while　the　weather　continued　　unpropitious。　　After　entering　the　sounds　there　was　but　one　spot　of　upland；　near　the　mouth　of　the　Satilla　River；　that　could　be　used　for　camping　purposes　on　the　vast　area　of　marshes。

During　the　month　of　March　rainy　and　windy　weather　prevail　on　this　coast。　　I　could　ill　afford　to　lose　any　time　shut　up　in　Jointer's　Hammock　by　bad　weather；　as　the　low　regions　of　　Okefenokee　Swamp　were　to　be　penetrated　before　the　warm　season　could　make　the　task　a　disagreeable　one。　　After　holding　a　consultation　with　Mr。　Williams；　he　contracted　to　take　the　canoe　and　its　captain　across　St。　Andrew's　Sound　to　High　Point　of　Cumberland　Island　that　day。　　His　little　sloop　was　soon　under　way；　and　though　the　short；　breaking　waves　of　the　sound；　and　the　furious　blasts　of　wind；　made　the　navigation　of　the　shoals　disagreeable；　we　landed　quietly　at　Mr。　Chubbs'　Oriental　Hotel；　at　High　Point；　soon　after　noon。

Mr。　Martin；　the　surveyor　of　the　island；　　welcomed　me　to　Cumberland；　and　gave　me　much　information　pertaining　to　local　matters。　The　next　morning　the　canoe　left　the　high　bluffs　of　this　beautiful　sea　island　so　filled　with　historic　associations；　and　threaded　the　marshy　　thoroughfare　of　Cumberland　and　Brickhill　River　to　　Cumberland　Sound。　　As　I　approached　the　mouth　of　the　St。　Mary's　River；　the　picturesque　ruins　of　Dungeness　towered　above　the　live…oak　forest　of　the　southern　end　of　Cumberland　Island。　It　was　with　regret　I　turned　my　back　upon　that　sea；　the　sounds　of　which　had　so　long　struck　upon　my　ear　with　their　sweet　melody。　　It　seemed　almost　a　moan　that　was　borne　to　me　now　as　the　soft　waves　laved　the　sides　of　my　graceful　craft；　as　though　to　give　her　a　last；　loving　farewell。




CHAPTER　XIV。　　ST；　MARY'S　RIVER　AND　THE　SUWANEE　WILDERNESS。



A　PORTAGE　TO　DUTTON。　　DESCENT　OF　THE　ST。　MARY'S　RIVER。　　FETE　GIVEN　BY　THE　CITIZENS　TO　THE　PAPER　CANOE。　　THE　PROPOSED　CANAL　ROUTE　ACROSS　FLORIDA。　　A　PORTAGE　TO　THE　SUWANEE　RIVER。　　A　NEGRO　SPEAKS　ON　　ELECTRICITY　AND　THE　TELEGRAPH。　　A　FREEDMAN'S　SERMON。


I　now　ascended　the　beautiful　St。　Mary's　River；　which　flows　from　the　great　Okefenokee　Swamp。　The　state　of　Georgia　was　on　my　right　hand；　and　Florida　on　my　left。　Pretty　hammocks　dotted　the　marshes；　while　the　country　presented　peculiar　and　interesting　characteristics。　When　four　miles　from　Cumberland　Sound；　the　little　city　of　St。　Mary's；　situated　on　the　Georgia　side　of　the　river；　was　before　me；　and　I　went　ashore　to　make　inquiries　concerning　the　route　to　　Okefenokee　Swamp。

My　object　was　to　get　information　about　the　upper　St。　Mary's　River；　from　which　I　proposed　to　make　a　portage　of　thirty…five　or　forty　miles　in　a　westerly　direction　to　the　Suwanee　River；　upon　arriving　at　which　I　would　descend　to　the　Gulf　of　Mexico。　　My　efforts；　both　at　St。　Mary's　and　Fernandina；　on　the　Florida　side　of　　Cumberland　Sound；　to　obtain　any　reliable　information　upon　this　matter；　were　unsuccessful。　　A　　settlement　at　Trader's　Hill；　about　seventy…five　miles　up　the　St。　Mary's　River；　was　the　geographical　limit　of　local　knowledge；　while　I　wished　to　ascend　the　river　at　least　one　hundred　miles　　beyond　that　point。

Believing　that　if　I　explored　the　uninhabited　sources　of　the　St。　Mary's；　I　should　be　compelled　to　return　without　finding　any　settler　upon　its　banks　at　the　proper　point　of　departure　for　a　portage　to　the　Suwanee；　it　became　necessary　to　abandon　all　idea　of　ascending　this　river。　I　could　not；　however；　give　up　the　exploration　of　the　route。　　In　this　dilemma；　a　kindly　written　letter　seemed　to　solve　the　difficulties。　　Messrs。　Dutton　&　Rixford；　northern　gentlemen；　who　possessed　large　facilities　for　the　manufacture　of　resin　and　turpentine　at　their　new　settlements　of　Dutton；　six　miles　from　the　St。　Mary's　River；　and　at　　Rixford；　near　the　Suwanee；　kindly　proposed　that　I　should　take　my　canoe　by　railroad　from　　Cumberland　Sound　to　Dutton。　　From　that　station　Mr。　Dutton　offered　to　transport　the　boat　through　the　wilderness　to　the　St。　Mary's　River；　which　could　be　from　that　point　easily　descended　to　the　sea。　The　Suwanee　River；　at　Rixford；　could　be　reached　by　rail；　and　the　voyage　would　end　at　its　debouchure　on　the　marshy　coast　of　the　Gulf　of　Mexico。

Hon。　David　Yulee；　president　and　one…third　owner　of　the　A。　G。　&　W。　I。　T。　C。　Railroad；　which　connects　the　Atlantic　coast　at　Fernandina　with　the　Gulf　coast　at　Cedar　Keys；　offered　me　the　free　use　of　his　long　railroad；　for　any　purpose　of　exploration；　&c。；　while　his　son；　Mr。　C。　　Wickliffe　Yulee；　exerted　himself　to　remove　all　　impediments　to　delay。

These　gentlemen；　being　native　Floridians；　have　done　much　towards　encouraging　all　　legitimate　exploration　of　the　peninsula；　and　have　also　done　something　towards　putting　a　check　on　the　outrageous　impositions　practised　on　northern　agricultural　emigrants　to　Florida；　by　encouraging　the　organization　of　a　railroad　land…company；　which　offers　a　forty…acre　homestead　for　fifty　　dollars；　to　be　selected　out　of　nearly　six　hundred　thousand　acres　of　land　along　their　highway　across　the　state。　　A　man　of　comparatively　small　means　can　now　try　the　experiment　of　making　a　home　in　the　mild　climate　of　Florida；　and　if　he　afterwards　abandons　the　enterprise　there　will　have　been　but　a　small　investment　of　capital；　and　consequently　little　loss。

The　turpentine　distillery　of　Dutton　was　situated　in　a　heavy　forest　of　lofty　pines。　　Major　C。　K。　Dutton　furnished　a　team　of　mules　to　haul　the　Maria　Theresa　to　the　St。　Mary's　River；　the　morning　after　my　arrival　by　rail　at　Dutton　　Station。　　The　warm　sunshine　shot　aslant　the　tall　pines　as　the　teamster　followed　a　faintly　　developed　trail　towards　the　swamps。　　Before　noon　the　flashing　waters　of　the　stream　were　discernible；　and　a　little　later；　with　paddle　in　hand；　I　was　urging　the　canoe　towards　the　Atlantic　coast。　A　luxurious　growth　of　trees　and　shrubs　fringed　the　low；　and　in　some　places　submerged；　river　shores。　　Back；　on　the　higher；　sandy　soils；　the　yellow　pine　forests；　in　almost　primeval　grandeur；　arose；　shutting　out　all　view　of　the　horizon。　Low　bluffs；　with　white；　sandy　beaches　of　a　few　rods　in　extent；　offered　excellent　camping…grounds。

When　the　Cracker　of　Okefenokee　Swamp　is　asked　why　he　lives　in　so　desolate　a　region；　with　only　a　few　Cattle　and　hogs　for　companions；　with　mosquitoes；　fleas；　and　vermin　about　him；　with　alligators；　catamounts；　and　owls　on　all　sides；　making　night　hideous；　he　usually　replies；　〃Wal；　stranger；　wood　and　water　is　so　powerful　handy。　Sich　privileges　ain't　met　with　everywhar。〃

＇　FROM　ST。　SIMON'S　SOUND；　GEORGIA；　TO　CEDAR　KEYS；　FLORIDA　＇


As　I　glided　swiftly　down　the　dark　current　I　peered　into　the　dense　woods；　hoping　to　be　cheered　by　the　sight　of　a　settler's　cabin；　but　in　all　that　day's　search　not　a　clearing　could　be　found；　nor　could　I　discern　rising　from　the　　treetops　of　the　solitary　forest　a　little　cloud　of　smoke　issuing　from　the　chimney　of　civilized　man。　I　was　alone　in　the　vast　wilds　through　which　the　beautiful　river　flowed　noiselessly　but　swiftly　to　the　sea。　　Thoreau　loved　a　swamp；　and　so　do　all　lovers　of　nature；　for　nowhere　else　does　she　so　bountifully　show　her　vigorous　powers　of　growth；　her　varied　wealth　of　botanical　wonders。　　Here　the　birds　resort　in　flocks　when　weary　of　the　hot；　sandy　uplands；　for　here　they　find　pure　water；　cool　shade；　and　many　a　curious　glossy　berry　for　their　dainty　appetites。

As　the　little　Maria　Theresa　sped　onward　through　the　open　forest　and　tangled　wild…wood；　through　　wet　morass　and　piny　upland；　my　thoughts　dwelt　upon　the　humble　life　of　the　Concord　naturalist　and　philosopher。　　How　he　would　have　enjoyed　the　descent　of　this　wild　riv