voyage of the paper canoe-第18部分

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buoyant　feeling　succeeded　the　moment's　　depression；　and　I　felt　that　this　was　only　the　first　of　many　trials　which　were　necessary　to　prepare　me　for　the　successful　completion　of　my　　undertaking。　　But　where　was　the　canoe；　with　its　　provisions　that　were　to　sustain　me；　and　the　charts　which　were　to　point　out　my　way　through　the　labyrinth　of　waters　she　was　yet　to　traverse？　She　had　drifted　near　the　shore；　but　would　not　land。　　There　was　no　time　to　consider　the　　propriety　of　again　entering　the　water。　The　struggle　was　a　short　though　severe　one；　and　I　dragged　my　boat　ashore。

Everything　was　wet　excepting　what　was　most　needed；　　a　flannel　suit；　carefully　rolled　in　a　water…proof　cloth。　I　knew　that　I　must　change　my　wet　clothes　for　dry　ones；　or　perish。　　This　was　no　easy　task　to　perform；　with　hands　　benumbed　and　limbs　paralyzed　with　the　cold。　　O　shade　of　Benjamin　Franklin；　did　not　one　of　thy　kinsmen；　in　his　wide　experience　as　a　traveller；　foresee　this　very　disaster；　and　did　he　not；　when　I　left　the　　〃City　of　Brotherly　Love；〃　force　upon　me　an　antidote；　a　sort　of　spiritual　fire；　which　my　New　England　temperance　principles　made　me　refuse　to　accept？　　〃It　is　old；　very　old；〃　he　　whispered；　as　he　slipped　the　flask　into　my　coat…　pocket；　〃and　it　may　save　your　life。　Don't　be　foolish。　I　have　kept　it　well　bottled。　It　is　a　pure　article；　and　cost　sixteen　dollars　per　gallon。　　I　use　it　only　for　medicine。〃　　I　found　the　flask；　the　water　had　not　injured　it。　　A　small　quantity　was　taken；　when　a　most　favorable　change　came　over　my　entire　system；　mental　as　well　as　physical；　and　I　was　able　to　throw　off　one　suit　and　put　on　　another　in　the　icy　wind；　that　might；　without　the　stimulant；　have　ended　my　voyage　of　life。

I　had　doctored　myself　homoeopathically　under　the　old　practice。　　Filled　with　feelings　of　　gratitude　to　the　Great　Giver　of　good；　I　reflected；　as　I　carried　my　wet　cargo　into　the　marsh；　upon　the　wonderful　effects　of　my　friend's　medicine　when　taken　only　as　medicine。　　Standing　upon　the　cold　beach　and　gazing　into　the　sea；　now　lashed　by　the　wild　frenzy　of　the　wind；　I　determined　never　again　to　do　so　mean　a　thing　as　to　say　a　word　against　good　brandy。

Having　relieved　my　conscience　by　this　just　resolve；　I　transported　the　whole　of　my　wet　but　still　precious　cargo　to　a　persimmon　grove；　on　a　spot　of　firm　land　that　rose　out　of　the　marsh；　where　I　made　a　convenient　wind…break　by　stretching　rubber　blankets　between　trees。　　On　this　knoll　I　built　a　fire；　obtaining　the　matches　to　kindle　it　from　a　water…proof　safe　presented　to　me　by　Mr。　Epes　Sargent；　of　Boston；　some　years　before；　when　I　was　ascending　the　St。　Johns　River；　Florida。

Before　dusk；　all　things　not　spoiled　by　the　water　were　dried　and　secreted　in　the　tall　sedge　of　the　marshes。　　The　elevation　which　had　given　me　friendly　shelter　is　known　as　〃Hog　Island。〃　The　few　persimmon…trees　that　grew　upon　it　　furnished　an　ample　lunch；　for　the　frosts　had　　mellowed　the　plum…like　fruit；　making　it　sweet　and　edible。　　The　persimmon　（Diospyrus　　Virginiana）　is　a　small　tree　usually　found　in　the　middle　and　southern　states。　　Coons　and　other　animals　feast　upon　its　fruit。　　The　deepening　gloom　warned　me　to　seek　comfortable　quarters　for　the　night。

Two　miles　up　the　strand　was　an　old　gunners'　inn；　to　which　I　bent　my　steps　along　Slaughter　Beach；　praying　that　one　more　day's　effort　would　take　me　out　of　this　bleak　region　of　ominous　names。　　A　pleasant　old　gentleman；　Mr。　Charles　Todd；　kept　the　tavern；　known　as　Willow　Grove　Hotel；　more　for　amusement　than　for　profit。　　I　said　nothing　to　him　about　the　peculiar　manner　in　which　I　had　landed　on　Slaughter　Beach；　but　to　his　inquiry　as　to　where　my　boat　was；　and　what　kind　of　a　boat　it　was　to　live　in　such　a　blow；　I　replied　that　I　found　it　too　wet　and　cold　on　the　bay　to　remain　there；　and　too　rough　to　proceed　to　Cape　Henlopen；　and　there　being　no　alternative；　I　was　obliged　to　land　much　against　my　inclination；　and　in　doing　so　was　drenched　to　the　skin；　but　had　managed　to　get　dry　before　a　fire　in　the　marshes。　　So　the　kind　old　man　piled　small　logs　in　the　great　kitchen　fireplace；　　and　told　me　tale　upon　tale　of　his　life　as　a　　schoolmaster　out　west；　of　the　death　of　his　wife　there；　and　of　his　desire　to　return；　after　long　years　of　absence；　to　his　native　Delaware；　where　he　could　be　comfortable；　and　have　all　the　clams；　oysters；　fish；　and　bay　truck　generally　that　a　man　could　wish　for。

〃Now；〃　he　added；　〃I　shall　spend　my　last　days　here　in　peace。〃　　He　furnished　an　excellent　supper　of　weak…fish　or　sea　trout　（Otolithus　　regalio）；　fried　oysters；　sweet　potatoes；　&c。

This　locality　offers　a　place　of　retirement　for　men　of　small　means　and　limited　ambition。　　The　broad　bay　is　a　good　sailing　and　fishing　ground；　while　the　great　marshes　are　the　resort　of　many　birds。　　The　light；　warm　soil　responds　generously　to　little　cultivation。　　After　a　day　of　hunting　and　fishing；　the　new…comer　can　smoke　his　pipe　in　peace；　to　the　music　of　crackling　flames　in　the　wide　old　fireplace。　Here　he　may　be　　comfortable；　and　spend　his　last　days　quietly　vegetating；　with　no　criticisms　on　his　deterioration；　knowing　that　he　is　running　to　seed　no　faster　than　his　neighbors。

The　wind　had　gone　to　rest　with　the　sun；　and　the　sharp　frost　that　followed　left　its　congealed　breath　upon　the　shallow　pools　of　water　nearly　half　an　inch　in　thickness　by　morning。　From　my　bed　I　could　see　through　the　window　the　bright　flashes　from　Cape　May　and　Cape　　Henlopen　lights。　　Had　not　misfortune　beset　me；　a　four…hours'　pull　would　have　landed　me　at　Lewes。　There　was　much　to　be　thankful　for；　however。　Through　a　merciful　Providence　it　was　my　　privilege　to　enjoy　a　soft　bed　at　the　Willow　Grove　Inn；　and　not　a　cold　one　on　the　sands　of　　Slaughter　Beach。　So　ended　my　last　day　on　Delaware　Bay。




CHAPTER　VIII。　　FROM　CAPE　HENLOPEN　TO　NORFOLK；　VIRGINIA



THE　PORTAGE　TO　LOVE　CREEK。　　THE　DELAWARE　　WHIPPINGPOST。　　REHOBOTH　AND　INDIAN　RIVER　BAYS。　　A　PORTAGE　TO　LITTLE　ASSAWAMAN　BAY。　　ISLE　OF　WIGHT　BAY。　　　WINCHESTER　PLANTATION。　　CHINCOTEAGUE。　　WATCHAPREAGUE　INLET。　　COBB'S　ISLAND。　　CHERRYSTONE。　　ARRIVAL　AT　　NORFOLK。　　THE　〃LANDMARK'S〃　ENTERPRISE。


My　first　thought　the　next　morning　was　of　the　lost　outrigger；　and　how　I　should　replace　it。　　My　host　soon　solved　the　problem　for　me。　I　was　to　drive　to　the　scene　of　the　late　disaster　in　his　light；　covered　wagon；　load　it　with　the　canoe　and　cargo；　and　take　the　shortest　route　to　Love　Creek；　six　miles　from　Lewes；　stopping　on　the　way　at　a　blacksmith's　for　a　new　outrigger。　We　drove　over　sandy　roads；　through　forests　of　pine　and　oak；　to　the　village　of　Milton；　where　a　curious　crowd　gathered　round　us　and　facetiously　asked　if　we　had　〃brought　the　canoe　all　the　way　from　Troy　in　that　'ere　wagon。〃　　The　village　smith；　without　removing　the　paper　boat　from　her　snug　quarters；　made　a　fair　outrigger　in　an　hour's　time；　when　we　continued　our　monotonous　ride　through　the　dreary　woods　to　a　clearing　upon　the　banks　of　a　cedar　swamp；　where　in　a　cottage　lived　Mr。　George　Webb；　to　whom　Bob　Hazzle；　my　driver；　presented　me。　　Having　now　reached　Love　Creek；　I　deposited　my　canoe　with　Mr。　Webb；　and　started　off　for　Lewes　to　view　the　town　and　the　ocean。

Across　the　entrance　of　Delaware　Bay；　from　Cape　Henlopen　Light　to　Cape　May　Light　on　the　southern　end　of　New　Jersey；　is　a　distance　of　twelve　statute　miles。　　Saturday　night　and　　Sunday　were　passed　in　Lewes；　which　is　situated　inside　of　Cape　Henlopen；　and　behind　the　　celebrated　stone　breakwater　which　was　constructed　by　the　government。　This　port　of　refuge　is　much　frequented　by　coasters；　as　many　as　two　or　three　hundred　sails　collecting　here　during　a　severe　gale。　　The　government　is　building　a　　remarkable　pier　of　solid　iron　spiles；　three　abreast；　which；　when　completed；　will　run　out　seventeen　　hundred　feet　into　the　bay；　and　reach　a　depth　of　twenty…three　feet　of　water。　　Captain　Brown；　of　the　Engineers；　was　in　charge　of　the　work。　By　the　application　of　a　jet　of　water；　forced　by　an　　hydraulic　pump　through　a　tube　down　the　outside　of　the　spile　while　it　is　being　screwed　into　the　sand；　a　puddling　of　the　same　is　kept　up；　which　　relieves　the　strain　upon　the　screw…flanges；　and　saves　fourteen…fifteenths　of　the　time　and　labor　usually　expended　by　the　old　method　of　inserting　the　screw　spile。　This　invention　was　a　happy　thought　of　Captain　Brown。

The　government　has　purchased　a　piece　of　land　at　Lewes　for　the　site　of　a　fort。　　Some　time　in　the　future　there　will　be　a　railroad　terminating　on　the　pier；　and　coal　will　be　brought　directly　from　the　mines　to　supply　the　fleets　which　will　gather　　within　the　walls　of　the　Breakwater。　Here；　free　from　all　danger　of　an　ice　blockade；　this　port　will　　become　a　safe　and　convenient　harbor　and　　coaling　station　during　the　winter　time　for　government　and　other　vessels。

At　dusk　on　Sunday　evening　the　collector　of　the　port；　Captain　Lyons；　and　his　friends；　took　me　in　their　carriage　back　to　Love　Creek；　where　Mr。　Webb　insisted　upon　making　me　the　　recipient　of　his　hospitality　for　the　night。　　A　little　crowd　of　women　from　the　vicinity　of　the　swamp　were　awaiting　my　arrival　to　see　the　canoe。　One　ancient　dame；　catching　sight　of　the　alcohol…stove　which　I　took　from　my　vest…pocket；　clapped　her　thin　hands　and　enthusiastically　exclaimed；　〃What　a　nice　thing　for　a　sick…room…the　best　nuss…lamp　I　ever　seed！〃　　Having　satisfied　the　curiosity　of　these　people；　and　been　much　amused　by　thei